Some Important Tips for Rose gardening

Some Important Tips for Rose gardening

It’s true that there are certain pests and diseases that hamper roses are simply prone to. At some point, every rose gardener will encounter black spot, Japanese beetles, rose chafers and mildew. Do not let that deter you from rose gardening. It is possible to control problems or to avoid them all together. It’s even possible to Rose garden organically. It just takes regular care and some gardening common sense. Everyone who is interested in planting roses should know that they do require a bit of care. 

Pruning Roses

 

Pruning rose bushes is intimidating to many gardeners, but actually very good for the plants. Becoming an accomplished rose pruner takes time and practice, but keep in mind that it is very hard to kill a rose with bad pruning. While there is a great deal of disagreement among rose experts regarding how and when to prune roses, it is generally agreed that most mistakes will grow out very quickly and it is better to make a good effort at pruning roses than to let them grow rampant.

Essential points for Pruning Roses:

 

• Use clean, sharp tools
• Look at the overall plant, but begin pruning from the base of the plant.
• Prune to open the center of the plant to light and air circulatio
• Make your cuts at a 45-degree angle, about 1/4 inches above a bud that is facing toward the outside of the plant.
• Remove any weak or twiggy branches thinner than a pencil
• If cane borers are a problem in your area, seal the cut with white glue, such as Elmer’s
• Remove sucker growth below the graft.
• Make sure it is a clean cut (not ragged)
• Remove all broken, dead, dying or diseased wood (Any branches that look dry, shriveled or black. Cut until the inside of the cane is white.
  
  
  
  
  When to the Prune of Roses should be done?
  
  
  
  

  Timing is an important step for Pruning of Roses. Timing is determined by the class of the rose plant and the hardiness zone in which it is growing. Most rose pruning is done in the spring, with the blooming of the forsythia as a signal to get moving. If you don't have forsythia, watch for when the leaf buds begin to swell on your rose plants, it is meaning that the bumps on the canes get larger and reddish in color. Hybrid tea roses are the most particular about pruning. If you don't know what type of rose you have, watch the plant for a season. If it blooms on the new growth it sends out that growing season, prune while dormant or just about to break dormancy, as stated above. If it blooms early, on last year's canes, don't prune until after flowering. Pruning needs to be done at a specific time. Keeping in mind the type of rose plant and the area where it is growing is necessary in order to determine when to prune it. Most rose pruning is done right before the appearance of new buds in early spring.
  
  
  However, some varieties of roses also need to be pruned before winter sets in. After the rose gardener has determined when to prune roses, the next thing is to know the proper way of pruning them. It is important to use sharp and clean pruning tools. Sharpness insures you get a clean cut and don’t mangle the plant. Cleanliness minimizes the spread of any possible infectious diseases. When cutting it is also recommended to cut at a 45 to 50° angle and at an estimated 1/4 inch above a possible bud. During pruning, the first things that need to be cut off are the branches or canes that are diseased, damaged, weak or deformed. Next thing would be all the canes that grow towards the center and any possible suckers. The last would be any unnecessary branches or canes as to achieve the desired height and shape. Also, remember to leave four to five healthy canes in the center. Pruning can be challenging at first but if you know when to prune roses and have the right tools, you have half the battle won. Once you become more proficient at it, you might even find that you enjoy pruning and shaping this beautiful plant.
   
  Feeding of Roses:
  Roses are hungry feeders. You should fertilize with a food that is a little heavier on the phosphorus (middle number in the three). Improving the soil is recommended to increase the water and fertilizer retention. While species and shrub roses will make do with most any soil, Hybrid Teas need a highly fertile and organic soil to do well at all. Manure, mushroom compost, or any other highly organic additives are a necessity for a good Hybrid Tea rose. Good organic mulch will go a long way towards improving the soil fertility from year to year, as well as increasing water retention. DO NOT use wood chips or a poorly composted bark product. These require nitrogen to decompose and will rob your rose of nutrients. If you have been looking for a reason to start a compost pile, there is no better reason than mulching. Compost will actually add nutrients to the soil along with beneficial microbes. A quick scratch with a hoe will easily eliminate any weeds and keep the soil loose and fluffy. Roses detest any sort of competition so do not fall prey to the temptation of planting closely around roses. Dusting with rose powder is recommended for tea roses to keep off black spot and powdery mildew. These can be fatal diseases for your average Hybrid Tea rose, although not a big problem for your shrub and species roses. Many of the newer roses are bred specifically for disease resistance.
   
  Some Important Diseases Related to Rose Plant: 
  
  
   Powdery Mildew disease of Rose Plant:
  
  
  
  
  Identifying Symptoms:
  
  
  
  Powdery mildew, caused by the fungus Sphaerotheca pannosa, appears as a white powdery growth on rose leaves, stems, buds, or flowers. It usually first appears on new growth in periods of warm, dry days followed by cool, damp nights. The new leaves may become curled or twisted and the shoots may look badly deformed. The fungus may also infect older leaves. Often, the upper surface of the leaves appears normal, but there is extensive fungus growth on the underside of the leaf.
  
  
  Control Management:
  
  
  Although detailed information is lacking, some rose varieties are more resistant to powdery mildew. When planting new roses, find out from local rosaries which varieties are most resistant. The planting site can also be made less conducive to powdery mildew development. Do not plant roses in shaded spots, especially those areas that tend to dry out slowly in the morning. Surrounding hedges or shrubs should be pruned or thinned to allow for more air movement over the roses. Finally, a regular, preventive spray program with fungicides should be carried out.
  
  
  Black Spot disease of Rose Plant:
  
  
   
  Identifying Symptoms:
  
  
  The fungus, Diplocarpon rosae, produces round black spots with fringed margins on leaves or stems. On some varieties, yellowing may show up around the spots. These symptoms are often seen on the lower leaves first. Infected leaves will drop off and may leave the plant almost completely defoliated except for a few leaves that have recently grown at the tip of the canes. Such plants are badly weakened and may die over the winter.
  
  
  
  
  Control Management:
  
  
  As with powdery mildew, some varieties of rose are less susceptible. Select and plant resistant varieties whenever possible. The fungus survives the winter in fallen leaves. Raking and removing these leaves each fall may provide some control. Avoid watering the plants by splashing water on or about the leaves. Plant in sunny locations where plants will dry quickly after watering, rains, or damp nights (dew). Begin a fungicide spray program as soon as new leaves appear in the early spring.
  
  
   
  Stem or Cane Cankers disease of Rose plant:
  Identifying Symptoms:
  
  
  
  Several fungi cause stem cankers on roses. The different fungi cause slightly different looking cankers, but they usually produce brown, oval shaped, sunken or shriveled areas anywhere on the cane. When the canker completely surrounds or girdles the cane, the cane dies and the leaves wilt from that point outward. Sometimes small black specks of fungus spore forming structures can be seen erupting on the cane surface within the cankered area.
  
  
  Control Management:
  
  
  Always plant disease free material. Each year, prune out and destroy all diseased canes, making sure to cut well below the obviously cankered areas. Protect the plants from cold or freeze injury in the winter. This can be done either with mulch or another kind of cover. Keep the plants vigorous with proper fertilization, good watering practices, and black spot and powdery mildew disease control programs.
  
  
  Crown Gall disease of Rose Plant:
   
  Identifying Symptoms:
  
  
  Irregularly shaped, bulbous masses of tissue (galls) appear on stems near the soil line. These can appear as small swellings, or be several inches across. Severely infected plants become stunted and fail to produce acceptable flowers.
  
  
  Control Management:
  
  
  Avoid buying infected material with suspicious swellings or galls on lower stems or crowns. Protect plants from injuries on the stems. Maintain vigor with fertilization and watering. Pull and destroy badly infected plants. There is no chemical control for this disease.
  
  
  
  
  Mosaic disease of Rose Plant: 
   
  Identifying Symptoms:
  
  
  
  Rose mosaic is caused by a virus. Bright yellow patterns made up of wavy lines may appear on the leaves of some varieties. Other varieties may show no yellow lines, but may be stunted and weak due to virus infection.
  
  
  
  
  Control Management:
  
  
  Virus infected plants cannot be cured. Plant virus resistant roses if possible. Try to control insects, particularly aphids, since they help spread the virus. If you are pruning virus-infected plants, don't prune healthy plants unless you have disinfested your pruners. Pruners can be disinfested by dipping in a 10% solution of chlorine bleach in water. Severely infected plants should be removed and destroyed.
  
  
  Rosette and Witches Broom disease of Rose Plant:
  
  
   
  Identifying Symptoms:
  
  
  Rapid stem elongation may be an early symptom of this disease. Later on, certain branches of the plant will develop thickened, thorny stems. Many short, deformed shoots will form, often with red pigmentation and tiny misshapen leaves. These shoots give the appearance of a witches broom. Plants die within one to two years as symptoms spread from branch to branch.
  
  
  Control Management:
  
  
  The exact cause of this disease is unknown. Infected plants cannot be cured. Try to control insects, particularly leaf hoppers and plant hoppers. To protect other plants against the possibility of an infectious agent, symptomatic plants should be dug and discarded as soon as the disease is noticed.
  
  
  Rust disease of Rose Plant:
  
  
  Identifying Symptoms:
  
  
  Rose rust caused by the fungus, Phragmidium sp., appears as orange or rust colored growth on the underside of the leaves. Older leaves tend to show symptoms before younger leaves. Under favorable conditions rust can cover the entire leaf and stem of the rose plant. Severe infections can cause premature defoliation.
  
  
  Control Management:
  
  
  Whenever possible plant resistant varieties. Any practice that prevents the leaves from remaining wet for extended periods of time is beneficial for control. Never spray leaves with water in the evening so that the leaf surface is wet over night. Plant roses in areas that have full sun and allow air to flow freely around the plants. As a last resort, fungicides should be used.